Though tourism in Hoi An has skyrocketed, there remain a few refuges in the city limits, and La Siesta Resort and Spa is one. Overlooking rice paddies, it is hidden behind a small, subtle, vine-covered façade that belies the large, graceful space inside. You head through the lobby to a pool deck, turn the corner into a lush garden that hosts tranquil private barbecues (the signature triangular prawn-and-pork spring rolls are a must) and emerge into an entirely new section of Eden. La Siesta, part of a family-owned group of boutique hotels based in Hanoi, has recently expanded beyond their original building to include a handsome wing where the rooms feel more like villas and the photogenic saltwater pool transports you to Bali (monumental fountains; cabana swings).
This block of luxury suites is all colonial-style floor tiles and claw-foot tubs (though the Veranda Suite Pool View bathroom boasts a stunning chestnut- and beaver-brown polished wooden tub that, with the private sauna next to it, looks like it should be in a ski chalet), and meditative balconies, porches or even backyards. It’s a study in gentility matched by the demeanor of the staff, whose mastery of English chat is as impressive as their assiduity.
Take a cooking class on the portico and sweet chef Ty will drop knowledge most never bother to explain to foreigners(example: Hoi An’s famed noodle and beef soup bun bo differs from its northern cousin bun bo Hue in that the latter uses shrimp paste).
Hop the hotel’s shuttle to the shore at An Bang and you have access to a beach club they’ve partnered with. Retire to the spa, a showpiece at the center of the property, where the pan-Asian treatments contain the best techniques of the region. There’s a beautiful town out there beyond these walls, but you’ll be thankful for the oasis. lasiestaresorts.com; doubles from US$85.
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